Luka Dakskobler

Stories: THE SAD LAKE

Lake Cerknica is one of the largest intermittent lakes in Europe, a mysterious piece of land commonly associated with folk tales. It lies on fragile karstic ground heavily affected by human intervention and recent climate change. The lake is in danger of drying out permanently. Local fishermen try hard to save it. The Romans called this lake The Sad Lake, because of its destiny to disappear so often. Folk tales of this lake have been around for centuries. The most common are those of another lake lying underneath the one we see on the Cerknica field. Yes, Lake Cerknica is actually a flooded field full of pastures. However, this natural marvel was heavily influenced by human interests. Decades ago, the lake dried out once in seven years, now it dries three times or more per year. In the past, people wanted to dry it out for good to preserve pasture land. So they straightened the riverbed of Stržen stream that runs over the entire field and fills the lake. They also blew up some large sinkholes to make water run into the underground faster. Today, with added climate change, the lake dries out up several times a year, which means life in it cannot recover in time. Therefore, local fishermen must save the fish before they die of oxygen deprivation when water subsides. Years of practice have taught them the exact timeline of drying out, which sinkholes go first, second etc. and how much time apart from each other. When the water subsides, they are on guard. The water can subside to a critical level and rise into a lake again in a matter of an hour if a storm with a lot of rain sits on the nearby Bloke plateau or Slivnica mountain. Therefore the rescue is launched after long periods of drought in any time of the year. When the water drops enough, phones start ringing and rescue teams assigned to specific sinkholes arrive with nets and buckets and an oxygenized water tank for transport of fish to a part of the lake that is artificially sustained to hold water the entire year. The rescue lasts for approximately two weeks all over this huge intermittent lake. It's maximum surface area is 38 square kilometres. In 2007, the Notranjska Regional Park obtained its first EU financing of renaturalization projects that would bring the lake into a state before all the human interventions. Most importantly, in 2016, they began two major projects to move the Stržen stream back into its old meanders, and thus slow it down. After partially restoring two minor streams in 2009, they moved on to the most important piece of restoration, Stržen. On September 6, 2019, after a month of digging out the old meanders of the stream, Stržen was diverted from its straight riverbed back into its old meanders. With this, and two partially restored streams in 2009, the lake is now 80% restored to its natural state. 

  • In high water, the lake measures 26 square kilometres. At high floods, it can reach a full ten kilometres further.
  • The Cerknica depression always had a distinct timetable and order of its drying out. It dries out from the lower part upwards, depending on different factors. But in recent years climate change has turned everything upside down. The order of sinkholes is mixed up and time from one sinkhole drying up to the other one starting to dry up has been extremely reduced.
  • The Bečki system of sinkholes consists of some of the most dangerous sinkholes on the lake. It is too dangerous to try rescuing fish from those.
  • Franc Jenko makes his way through the high grass of Lake Forest (the local name for the Cerknica depression) to reach some of the most remote and difficult to reach sinkholes in the middle of the lake. Due to abandoning pastures and lack of mowing the lake is growing over with two-meter-high reed, so sinkholes are hard to find in such a large area.
  • The {quote}road{quote} to Kevdrovce sinkholes leads through two meter high reed. Kevdrovce are situated in the middle of the lake.
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  • Anton Braniselj is trying to save a burbot in Mala Ponikva. Burbots do not take heat and lack of oxygen well, so every little drop in water level, which also means a rise in water temperatures, can be fatal.
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  • Anton Braniselj from Dolenje jezero cleans his fishnet after the Sitarica rescue. Several fish were too small for the net.
  • Because Stržen stream is so close to Sitarica, the fish are being released there, because the stream flows directly into the Rešeto pond, the part of the lake that never dries out.
  • The Golobinka rescue. This system of sinkholes is quite remote. Cars can not come very close, so the men must carry buckets of fish pretty far before reaching the jeep with a water tank.
  • The Kevdrovce team pulling a weighted net through Kevdrovce sinkhole. One pull is not nearly enough. It takes at least three.
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  • The Ponikve and Kevdrovce team carry wooden planks to temporarily fix the broken dam in front of Velika Ponikva, and thus make rescue easier. In the past, small dams were built between Stržen stream and some sinkholes to prevent water from draining into sinkholes too fast. Slowing the water down gives fishermen more time to rescue the stranded fish. Dams broke over the years, but legislation now prevents fishermen to permanently fix them.
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  • Nejc Lukan observes the first rescued pikes from Gebno sinkholes. They were rescued during their first night there, just after midnight.
  • Janez Krajnc battles extreme heat and vapouring mud at the Kotel sinkholes. The summer drying out occurs during extreme drought which means very high temperatures. This was the day that turned into a desperate struggle to defy nature that was clearly a lot stronger.
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  • Janez Krajnc and Tomaž Osterc in Kotel sinkhole full of dead fish wait for the water tank to return from Reseto pond. The Kotel rescue was the last and hardest day of the rescue. Water subsided too fast, and there were twice as many fish as normal. It took the jeep with the only water tank half an hour to return empty.
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  • The fastest and most effective rescue is done by hand. The locals are used to it, because (as they claim) fishing by hand is in their blood. But the situation in Kotel was hopeless. A single tank could not transport so many fish so quickly. Priority rescue was implemented. Pikes, carps, tench first.
  • Toni Urbas releases the fish into an 800-liter tank with oxygen that carries the fish from remote parts of the lake to the Rešeto pond or the Stržen stream.
  • Aleš Muhič and Sašo Svet release the last carp into the Rešeto pond, where they take all the rescued fish. Rešeto pond is a small portion of the lake that is dammed to keep the water from draining into sinkholes behind the dam. After the rest of the lake dries out and almost all fish are saved, this pond is full of fish.
  • The artificial dam of the Rešeto pond prevents water in the only part of the lake that does not dry out from flowing out into the sinkholes of the same name behind it. The dam is dilapidated and threatens to collapse, thus destroying the last resort for the fish saved during the drying out of the rest of the lake. Legislation and land owners prevent fishermen to fix it.
  • Children of locals who come to collect the remaining fish after the fishermen have done their work wait at the edge of the sinkhole to be handed the fish, which they store in their bags. Other dead fish must be taken away and buried to keep the bears away, but bears come anyway.
  • The fishermen call the locals who come to collect the dying fish for themselves {quote}the subdivision{quote}. They come after the fishermen are done saiving the fish to collect the fish that cannot be saved and take them home for food. It's officially poaching, but since these fish would die anyway, authorities allow it. It has been done so for centuries.
  • A boy snatches a pike from the Cešljenca sinkhole. Poaching is still popular, but is not as often practiced anymore. Mostly because people do not have time and because quality fish is easy to buy in a store. But it remains a part of local tradition. People around the lake have developed the skill to catch these fish by hand.
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  • Dry reed covers the Rešeto sinkholes as a front moves in promissing new rain.
  • Jože Šparemblek picks up the potentially alive small pike along the Bečki riverbed. Eventually, a great number of fish dies. Mostly rudds, which are too plenty anyway and regenerate immediately. But many young pikes die as well, because pikes tend to spawn in the months that the lake usually dries out.
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  • When the rain comes, Stržen fills up the lake again. The lake can fill up pretty fast if there is enough rainfall in its surroundings. It is so delicate that a single storm in nearby Bloke plateau can raise the water level high enough to trap the rescuers on the lake.
  • On September 2019 restoration is well underway. On September 6, 2019, the Notranjska Regional Park as part of the Life Stržen project diverted the Stržen stream that fills the lake into its restored meanders. The riverbed of Stržen was straightened 200 years ago to make water flow away faster, thus preventing the field to become a lake. With the stream back in its old menaders and two other minor streams partially restored, the lake is now 80% restored to its state before human intervention 200 years ago.
  • On September 2019 restoration is well underway. On September 6, 2019, the Notranjska Regional Park as part of the Life Stržen project diverted the Stržen stream that fills the lake into its restored meanders. The riverbed of Stržen was straightened 200 years ago to make water flow away faster, thus preventing the field to become a lake. With the stream back in its old menaders and two other minor streams partially restored, the lake is now 80% restored to its state before human intervention 200 years ago.
  • On September 2019 restoration is well underway. On September 6, 2019, the Notranjska Regional Park as part of the Life Stržen project diverted the Stržen stream that fills the lake into its restored meanders. The riverbed of Stržen was straightened 200 years ago to make water flow away faster, thus preventing the field to become a lake. With the stream back in its old menaders and two other minor streams partially restored, the lake is now 80% restored to its state before human intervention 200 years ago.
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